Wednesday 22 April 2015

All Saints action plan

All Saints – Design team

Before

I wasn't too sure what exactly I would be doing at All Saints however I knew that I would be working in the design team. I presumed I would learn how the designing of garments come to life and see some people designing or doing work on illustrator. I thought there may be some errands and running around finding things. All the things that you expect to do at most internships.

During

During my time I did a lot of research which at the start I was slightly disappointed that this was my main task however it helped to get me back into the mentality of eventually going back to university in September. I got to see a lot of working drawings and used these to help create my own garments and prints from my research come to life. I did a lot of organising, be it on the computer files or sorting out hangers and fabric swatches. I saw how the real industry is run and how fast the pace is. I took watch of fittings noticing how garments should fit the body and how every mm counts. I saw how they have a variety of suppliers for say denim and go through each and every item taking time to work out if it is right for this collection and the stores brand. I saw how at the end of each term they go over the sales of each garment in the top 50 and see what they have similar which would sell well and what didn't sell and why. 

After


Although I didn't enjoy my time at All Saints as much as my previous internships I did learn a lot which has helped me to realise my preferred career and what I would need when starting up my own company. I learnt about how to work to a deadline and how the whole team must help together to find garments and to chase people for work. I learnt about the thought process when dealing with sample garments and what should be fitted first so that it can be sent back to the factories before the postage deadline. I spent a lot of time researching for the new menswear collection which I hadn't done before for men’s clothing. I also had to research into the different dying processes that the factories would need to know to produce garments like my research; this was something I never had to think about before. I got to see how working drawings should be produced and the amount of detail that goes into them. I also saw how garments were fitted onto the body working at small measurements slightly changing the sleeve head or pocket size. I never realised before how much work goes into the size and shape of the garment after the sample is produced. As All Saints only do 3 week internships I feel like in my last week I was given more responsibility and that if they took on interns for one whole month then I would have perhaps enjoyed myself more as I would have felt part of the team and been given a wider range of tasks. 

Hand and Lock action plan

Hand and Lock
Before

Before going to Hand and Lock I was looking forward to a change from the work I was doing at Suzie Turners and I was hoping to learn a lot of different techniques. I also expected to run errands and be asked to work longer if needed. Apart from this I really wasn’t sure what to expect at Hand and Lock and I wasn’t sure what sort of tasks I would be given knowing the skills needed to work there. I was looking forward to see how a small studio runs in such a established company.

During

During my time at Hand and Lock I learnt a lot of new techniques and some that I never even knew about. I helped with the orders for the machine embroidery, learning how to digitise images. I also had to pack and trim any threads from the garments taken off the machine. I got to do a lot of different tasks, working on my own sea themed beading sample for the up and coming collection. I did a lot of errands delivering unique and delicate packages to different parts of London. I was mainly in the studio helping the head embroider with any tasks she had whether it be beading or organising the studio. Images of my work and descriptions can be found on the blog.


After


At Hand and Lock I gained a lot of different embroidery experience. I learnt about how to work with different materials from all price ranges. I saw how a big prize giving night is held and how much preparation is needed before it can be held. I got to learn how to do gold work an ancient technique and the types of material used whether it’s real gold or Mylar. I spent a lot of time unpicking and cutting off threads, this took a lot of patience but was useful as I learnt a lot about the construction of garments mainly suits. We had a lot of special tasks during my time, including adding diamantes to Adidas's hoodies for BBC radio one teen awards, creating tambour designs and sewing feathers onto four skirt panels for the British government world trade show. I got to go to some really interesting places in London seeing Savile row, the Ritz and other studios that were unique and very high end like Hand and Lock. I felt like part of the team and never like an intern which is why I enjoyed my time so much at Hand and Lock. I also feel like interning at Hand and Lock has been very beneficial for my CV as although it may not be well known to the public, in industry Hand and Lock hold all the embroidery knowledge. 

Suzie Turner Action plan


During my internships I would like to gain/ improve on;
·         Sewing experience,
·         Pattern cutting,
·         Embroidery,
·         Photoshop and illustrator skills,
·         References,
·         Better knowledge of the fashion industry
·         More experience on my CV

Suzie Turner

Before

Before going to Suzie turners I expected to learn how to sew a variety of embroidery techniques and beading techniques. I also expected to run errands and help out with general studio tasks. This would be good for me as I wanted to learn how to bead better and quicker in case I wanted to use this technique in my collection. I also knew running errands would be a good and quick way to learn my way around London better.

During

During my time at Suzie turner I did a lot of beading. I was working on one garment the whole time at Suzie turners. I also did some veil samples for brides, this also included beading. I also helped to move studios. More in depth log can be found on my blog.


After

At this internship I gained a lot of couture sewing experience. I learnt about how to work with delicate expensive materials, especially light coloured ones. I also learnt how couture beading and embellishment is done and how to ensure the beading is of high quality and lasts.
I was shown how the pattern pieces are marked when on lace or very fine materials and how beaded pieces are joined together.

I got a glimpse into the industry and how couture designers must present themselves and their work to maintain themselves as couture. I also learnt about how customer confidentiality and pricing is very important even if your garment may not get recognised as Suzie Turner.

I learnt about how careful to be when lending garments to magazines and how clear instructions should be given to ensure the garments are well looked after. 

When you get an interview

The chances are that the company has decided they want you to intern for them already, they just want to know more about you, your skills and how you would interact with the rest of the team.

Preparing for the interview is important. Each company is different and will ask you different things and expect to see relevant work in your portfolio.

Go through your portfolio and see what would work for most companies and what is missing.
Always try to get a double page spread and have a selection of work from hand drawing to photo shoots.
You should look through your portfolio before each interview and make it relevant for the company. This also refreshes you as to whats in it in case they ask you about the work.

I always try to make myself stand out or be recognisable as some company's may be interviewing a lot of interns. By this I mean I wear something bright and stylish, an eye catching piece of jewelry or the way I've done my hair that day.

Always be on time or slightly early, never late!

Just be yourself is the main thing! Every interview is a learning curve so try not to worry about the bad ones, learn for next time.

Applying for internships

For me the only things that need to be done when applying for an internship is to think ahead.

I am an obsessive planner and I dislike not knowing what I'm doing. I found throughout my placement year that researching and applying for internships throughout the year is the way forward. Even if you are currently in a placement that doesn't mean you cant prepare for your next one.

Firstly I made a list of all the places I knew I would like to intern at and then I went onto the bible of intern postings Fashion Workie. Possibly the most helpful website ever when it comes to finding a internship at any time.

The next step is to write a perfect cover letter which can be changed easily and more detail can be added depending on the company you are applying to. You should also check that your CV is updated and some suitable images are attached.

Then get applying, send as many as you can stating when you want to start. Persistence is key. If your desperate to work there then keep emailing or ringing up.
If you think sending 100 emails is enough then it probably isn't. Not everyone is going to reply to you and most may not even see your email.

Make use of the time not interning. Look on university websites for short courses or any other workshops happening in your area.


When im not interning

So most people try to get a part time job either during or between interning.

I started out this way but found I had to lose a day of interning and all of my weekend for this to happen. I also worked out that if I kept tabs on my money I didn't really need a job although the extra money was nice.

I have always been the person who has wanted her own label since she can remember drawing dresses and making them for her barbies.

So I have been spending my time wisely making the platforms ready for me to start my own brand.

I have my brand name and logo created and have been working on creating lingerie patterns. I have also got my brand name website domain secured ready to display the garments for sale.

As I am a self taught lingerie designer I have also spent a lot of time researching and sewing bras learning all the different techniques and materials available to use.
This time has been so useful for me as any garments that were made to a good standard will be available for me to sell online.


 







Tuesday 21 April 2015

Leather stitching

Today was Tamsins day whereby she taught us how to hand stitch leather.

We had to mark on our leather where we would stitch the two pieces together, this is done by hammering what looks like a strip of nails on the leather. this helps to keep the stitches straight and even.
Once this is done you then push through with an awl. The bigger the hole you make the easier it will be to thread the needles through.



Sewing is done with one strand of thread but with a needle on either end, this keeps the stitches tight together and means that if the thread breaks due to time the stitch will still hold. I found pulling the needle through quite difficult and had to use the pliers most of the time.



We also learnt how to mold leather to a metal ring which we then stitched to hold in place.